It's almost unbelievable. We get off the plane in Jerez de la Frontera in November - and the city welcomes us with bright sunshine and almost 20 degrees. The perfect time for a vacation in Andalusia - it's far too hot for that in summer. And there is already so much to see right here in the city, because Jerez is famous for horses, sherry and flamenco.

Breathtaking horse ballet

One of Andalusia's biggest attractions is the best dressage show in the world. Every Tuesday and Thursday, the famous Royal Andalusian Riding School (admission from 21 euros) shows how its noble horses "dance" in its beautiful old palace. A breathtaking ballet! Afterwards, we treat ourselves to a delicious glass of sherry - after all, we are here on vacation in Andalusia, right at the source. The bodegas of Sandeman, Tio Pepe, Gonzalez Byass, Alvaro Domecq and many others offer guided tours. We stroll through the vaulted cellars, marvel at the almost black barrels, taste many a golden drop and try to distinguish between Oloroso and Amontillado. Not so - hiccup - easy.

In the oldest city in Europe

The next day, we get a good night's sleep and take the rental car to Cádiz. The oldest city in Europe lies like a walled fortress in the sea. We take a long walk around it, keeping an eye out for pirates - just as the inhabitants have done for centuries. Afterwards, we stroll through the market hall and decide to eat fish in the evening in view of the overwhelming choice on offer. In the Plaza de los Flores, the "pescaíto frito" - a mixture of deep-fried dogfish, octopus and baby squid - tastes fantastic. Next stop in Andalusia: the beaches of Conil de la Frontera and Zahara de los Atunes. These are not cute little Mediterranean bathing puddles, but huge, miles-long Atlantic beaches.

Andalusia vacation: hikes in the hinterland

We walk towards the sun hour after hour, the sound of the sea puts us in an almost meditative state. So relaxing. The hinterland, which many beach vacationers rarely or never get to see, is also great for hiking on an Andalusia vacation. Just under an hour's drive from Malaga, there are bizarre rock formations that are millions of years old in the Torcal de Antequera nature reserve, which alone are worth the journey from Germany. Tip: It's best to stick to one of the two circular hiking trails, otherwise you can easily get lost in the labyrinth of rocks.

The magnificent buildings of Cordoba

But now we follow in the footsteps of the legendary al-Andalus. Between 711 and 1492, most of Spain was ruled by the Moors and experienced a blossoming of science and culture. With around 500,000 inhabitants, Córdoba was considered the largest and most prosperous city in Europe. And many of the magnificent buildings that were built back then can still be visited on an Andalusian vacation today. The legendary Mesquita, for example, was once one of the three largest mosques in the world. When the Christian kings reconquered Córdoba, it became a cathedral. Incidentally, it stands in the middle of the picturesque maze of alleyways in the Judería, the former Jewish quarter. Here we wander around the houses, drink "rebujito" - a mix of sherry and Seven Up - in a small pub and then have to dance a round of Sevillanas with the other guests. Which, by the way, is harder than it looks. At least for us.

Saving the best for last: the Alhambra

However, we have saved the highlight of our Andalusia trip for last: the Alhambra in Granada and behind it the Generalife summer palace with its gardens. We stroll through the rooms of the Nasrid princes, admire the ceilings decorated with arabesques and carvings, marvel at the fountains and views. What splendor! When the last Muslim ruler Boabdil had to leave the palace and the country for good in 1492, he turned back to the Alhambra on a nearby pass. One last look. With tears in his eyes. "Yes, cry like a woman, what you didn't defend as a man," his stern mother nagged. The hill has been called the Moorish Sigh ever since. We also sigh like Boabdil when we have to say goodbye. Until our next vacation in Andalusia, where Spain is at its most Spanish.