Natural skin ageing cannot be stopped. So does anti-ageing care make any sense at all?

Anna Tersteeg:Anti-ageing care is certainly not able to stop the ageing process completely. The aim of the targeted use of active ingredients and skin type-specific care is to achieve effective and lasting results through a broad spectrum of action: optimal moisturization, relaxed facial features, protection against ultraviolet radiation and the promotion of regeneration processes of already (UV) damaged skin.

Probably the most important factor in anti-ageing skincare is sun protection. We know that the majority of skin ageing is caused by the damaging effects of UV-A and UV-B radiation. Sun protection is therefore the most important preventative measure against skin ageing and should be integrated into daily skin care.

In addition, antioxidants, for example, can counteract the increasing oxidative stress in the skin. This is triggered by environmental factors such as UV radiation or alcohol and also accelerates the skin's ageing process.

At what age should you start anti-ageing skincare?

Anna Tersteeg: Anti-ageing can already be part of your daily skincare routine in your twenties. Light, moisturizing care products, e.g. with hyaluronic acid, can also be used as a cure. Creams containing fruit acids can also support the regeneration of the skin during the sunless season.

It is important that the products are tailored to the individual skin type. Light gel products are often sufficient at a young age, while richer water-in-oil emulsions are used with increasing age. As far as the richness of the products is concerned, there should always be an increase. The targeted selection of active ingredients can also increase anti-ageing care.

Which factors of skin aging can an anti-aging program address?

Anna Tersteeg:With increasing age, the pH value of the skin surface rises. Acidic cleansing and care products are particularly helpful in keeping the skin in a healthy pH range of 4.8-5.5. In the anti-ageing program, cleansing can consist of either a moisturizing cleansing milk or an activating foam, for example. A refreshing, skin-soothing toner should be used at the end of daily cleansing to permanently adjust the skin's pH value.

Moisture-binding substances such as hyaluronic acid help to prevent moisture loss. Expression lines can be smoothed with certain anti-age peptides. This makes the face appear smoother and the skin's moisture reserves are replenished.

Creams containing fruit acids are particularly helpful in supporting the regeneration of the skin. They stimulate the cell division rate in the upper layer of the skin (epidermis) and ensure an improved balance between living cells (keratinocytes) and dead horny cells (corneocytes). The fruit acids also strengthen the collagen and elastin fibers in the underlying dermis.

In the case of unsightly age spots, lightening products, for example with vitamin C, ensure an even complexion.

So should you use sunscreen all year round?

Anna Tersteeg:Sun protection products differ in terms of their sun protection factor (SPF). There are products with a low, medium or high sun protection factor. Another decisive factor when choosing a sun protection product is the skin's own protection time, i.e. the time we can spend in the sun without turning red and risking sunburn. There are a total of six skin types, whose self-protection time varies from <10 to 90 minutes. In Germany, it is increasingly the Nordic and mixed type that have a protection time of 10-30 minutes. The self-protection time increases if you are pre-tanned. At the same time, it can be reduced by spending time at higher altitudes (high mountains) or by the water due to the reflection of the sun's rays.

So if you know that you will be in the sun for a long time, for example when gardening or on a bike ride, you should use a product with a higher level of sun protection to extend the protection time. For daily protection, a product with a medium factor is sufficient.

Daily sun protection should not only cover the face, but also the neck, neckline and décolleté as well as the hands. These are the so-called sun terraces, i.e. the areas that are frequently exposed to the sun.

Can you think of any other tips to combat skin ageing?

Anna Tersteeg: On the one hand, revitalizing masks rich in active ingredients can provide a lot of moisture, supply the skin with nutrients and thus ensure a fresh, well nourished complexion. Masks are suitable as additional care once a week. Gel masks with aloe vera have the advantage that they are suitable for all skin types. They have a skin-smoothing, refreshing effect and support cell renewal.

On the other hand, peelings with fruit acids or on an enzymatic basis can smooth the skin's surface and stimulate regeneration processes. However, you should be careful with peelings during the sunny season, as peeling thins the top layer of skin (stratum corneum) and increases sensitivity to the sun.

RememberRemember